How to Grow Blue Sage Seeds:
Blue Sage is usually sold as either Mealy Blue Sage (Salvia farinacea) or Prairie/Azure Blue Sage (Salvia azurea), and they start a little differently. Check your packet name; if it just says “Blue Sage” from wildflower/prarie mixes, it’s often azurea. If it’s a bedding/ornamental salvia for borders and pots, it’s often farinacea. For Salvia farinacea: start indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost or direct sow after frost. Sprinkle seeds on the surface and press in lightly (they need light), keep evenly moist, and they usually sprout in about 7–14 days in warm temps. For Salvia azurea: seeds germinate best with cold stratification—either sow outdoors in late fall/winter, or refrigerate seeds in a slightly damp medium for about 4–8 weeks before spring sowing. After stratifying, sow on the surface or barely covered, keep moist, and expect germination in 1–3 weeks once temps warm. In both cases, plant in full sun with well-drained soil; thin or transplant to about 30–45 cm (12–18 in) apart. Set plants where you want them long-term because they form strong roots.
How to Care for Blue Sage:
Water regularly while seedlings establish, then shift to deeper, less frequent watering—blue sage likes moisture but hates soggy soil. Once mature, it’s quite drought tolerant, especially azurea. Don’t over-fertilize; too much nitrogen makes leafy plants with fewer flowers, so a light compost top-dress or a mild balanced feed in spring is plenty. Remove spent flower spikes to keep blooms coming and to prevent messy self-seeding if you don’t want it. Taller types (especially azurea) may need staking in windy spots. Pests are usually minor; if aphids show up, rinse off with water or use gentle soap spray. After the season, cut back dead stems; farinacea is often grown as an annual or tender perennial, while azurea dies back in winter and re-sprouts in spring, flowering heavier as clumps mature.
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